Life On the Water | Istanbul
“THE JOURNEY
Above the mountains
the geese turn into
the light again
Painting their
black silhouettes
on an open sky.
Sometimes everything
has to be
inscribed across
the heavens
so you can find
the one line
already written
inside you.
Sometimes it takes
a great sky
to find that
first, bright
and indescribable
wedge of freedom
in your own heart.
Sometimes with
the bones of the black
sticks left when the fire
has gone out
someone has written
something new
in the ashes of your life.
You are not leaving.
Even as the light fades quickly now,
you are arriving.”
a place full of the world, and all of its complexities
PART ONE: POLARITY
From the moment I arrived, I knew my time in Turkey was going to be something special. I am now on my third trip to Istanbul. I've rented an apartment and have been living in one of my favorite neighborhoods. I’ve decided to go for it, stop for awhile and start living the life here. I’ve been attending Turkish language courses, and found myself a nice yoga studio in my neighborhood. For the first time, I feel like I am in the right place. Istanbul quickly became home to me. I remember before I arrived here the first time, people saying, “ah, the magical city”. I never thought too much about it, but after spending more than three months in Istanbul alone, it truly is a magical city. It has the power to captivate and grow with you. It can be your city and simultaneously everyone’s city. When I am here, I am not thinking about my past nor my future. I can feel what it feels like to live in the moment, living in the middle of it all.
From the beginning I could feel the complexities of life in Turkey alongside the total bliss. It’s an amazing culture. People are so warm and willing to share their lives and connect with others. I had many conversations with all kinds of people, about what they love, what they hate, what they aspire to be and what they wish for. People are curious, interested and come from a long, complicated history. Geographically bridging two worlds and culturally blending all that is past, present and future, Istanbul truly is one-of-a-kind.
A week after I arrived, the Ataturk airport was attacked. This was heart-breaking, feeling the closeness and weight on everyone around me.
The sorrow that swept the city was unimaginable. The day was gorgeous and sky blue, but a filter hung overhead, pressing down with a consistent force. The streets were empty while everyone knew the routine and how to recover emotionally. But this time, it was different. How many days would it take to bounce back? Many lives lost, many mourning, and many in fear.
PART TWO: A TALE OF ONE DAY
The morning is beautiful. I sit on the ferry watching the water as the boat accelerates through the Bosphorus. The waves are gently moving, rocking the boat from left to right. The silence is interrupted by the water splashing the sides of the boat. As the speed increases, the sound intensifies and the intervals of silence decrease. The water begins to feel aggressive as the boat forges ahead, making it’s way through an unnatural course.
The seagulls are flying overhead. The moment intensifies as the birds swirl around the boat, swooping low to the water. As the seagulls ease their way back towards the sky, the moment becomes peaceful. All stabilizes and the sounds becomes rhythmic and comforting with the gentle sway from side to side.
There is an overwhelming sense of beauty in this city. The little moments fill my heart and leave me happy to be here, feeling at home.
Later that night, the military attempted a coup. The night was one of the most intense nights I’ve experienced in my time. Utter confusion as the evening escalated and lasted till the next morning. Sounds of explosions, gun shots and sonic booms as jets flew overhead. Connecting with friends throughout the city, each sending live updates of what was happening in their neighborhoods. People pulled from cars and thrown on the road. People carrying injured people away. More explosions. Streets loud and chaotic.
to be continued...
The day after the Ataturk Airport attack. The city was quiet and the ferry was empty.