Hanoi, Vietnam
 

living like a local, while not blending in


I spent two months in Hanoi, Vietnam. It was an incredible experience. While it wasn't easy, it was extremely insightful and I learned so much about the local life in Vietnam. 

I traveled here after finding an opportunity to volunteer at a non-profit social enterprise, focused on helping disadvantaged single mothers in Vietnam. Hong, the founder, is a bright woman who is passionate about providing opportunities to help alleviate the negative stigma for those in unfortunate circumstances. In Vietnam, a single woman is one thing, a single mother is another, and a single mother with a disability... it isn't easy.  

Coins for Change Vietnam (C4C) 

Before the Tet holiday, we visited 6 of the disadvantaged single mothers that the organization was supporting. Wow, what an experience. I only have this one photo because while we were there, it seemed inappropriate to take photos of them and their homes. It really was an eye-opening experience. 

This time of the year, was so cold in Vietnam. The humidity and poor insulation/lack of insulation in the homes presents a difficult living situation. Families were living essentially outdoors, one place even had a pig in the house. The women who were the single mothers, were isolated in worse living conditions in the back of the house. Unable to really take care of themselves. 

In Vietnam, it is believed that people who have disabilities are brought on to them from the past life. They are paying for some misfortune or bad behavior on behalf of family members from the life before. This creates a relationship of the disabled member to be ostracized, not looked at as a real member of the family. 

We experienced a day of going in and out of the homes of 6 different women, all conditions varying from one another. Disabilities leaving some completely dependent and stuck in bed, to others still able to walk. We learned that a couple of women developed paralyzed legs, due to a doctor's "mistake" while giving a shot incorrectly. Single parenthood for these women meant many different things, from relationships ending to the worse, rape. 

Currently, C4C Vietnam supports 6 or 7 women. All of the sub-businesses of the organization are ways to support the overall mission. Languages.vn supports the organization financially by having regular classes where children learn English. Elsa & Rose is a fashion design brand established to teach the single mothers vocational skills of sewing and creating clothes, while in turn producing an elegant mother/daughter fashion line. Our Place will open soon, has visions of a cooking school, exhibit space, community garden as well as a workshop space. 

Languages.vn

Most of my time in Hanoi was spent teaching at Languages.vn. I taught classes ranges from students of 7-18 years old, as well as teaching a class of adults.

It's incredible to teach. I gained a new appreciation for all of the good teachers that I have had in my life. It isn't easy! It takes a special person with the right amount of energy, patience and passion. I was tested as I have never formally taught. I also must admit that my English language wasn't in the best condition after traveling for 7 months, only speaking no more than the most basic English, Italian and communicating through hand-gestures. 

The students were an interesting mix. Some so shy, it was hard to hear their voice. Others adamant to be the first to answer everything. 

Over the two months, I created a relationship with my classes that allowed me to understand more about life in Vietnam. What it's like to be a child. What they are  and are not encouraged to think. I was able to see and understand the rigid structure of their expectations.

Part of Languages.vn mission is to encourage a global perspective. What I learned is that students in school aren't encouraged to ask questions. It's ingrained in them at such a young age, that it becomes a part of who they are. I struggled with getting my older classes to break away from the mold.  The younger kids, if you give them enough animation - they'll get excited about anything. 

My last days were really heart-warming. I decided to end with a treasure hunt, clues leading to the next. The students were running around, laughing and with serious determination. After, we sat around with the treasure and talked nonsense until the class was over. They were all so sweet and I received many letters from my students. Drawings of me as a princess (of course) in front of the class with words like "I love teacher, Jeanne," and "I miss you". 

 

Around the town: always in style

 

Food everywhere - on the streets, hanging from the walls, blocking the doors, and in my hands.

Deep fried corn and bananas

Deep fried corn and bananas

The best phở in town, and right down the street.

The best phở in town, and right down the street.

Brennan and I became the number one customers at the local popcorn stand. It was always so nice to get out of the house and interact with this lady. I think she was happy that we were popcorn addicts. 

 

At Home

Everyday we all shared lunch and dinner at the house. So great to take the time to sit around and share conversations and learn more of the political and humanitarian situations in Vietnam. 

 

Day to Explore

Nothing like a 2 hour motorbike out of the city to finally see some green (and water buffalo).