Geroite na Odessa | the Black Sea
PART I
GERIOTE NA ODESSA
"You are very nice," says Christo with a big smile. I glance at his hand as he grabs mine for a long, extended handshake. "I invite you to drink vodka. Do you like?" He gestures a small cups worth with his hands. "We can drink vodka tonight. Or do you like beer? I have little beer."
I am hesitant. We haven't even left the port yet! It's been 5 hours since I've boarded the ship. I've even managed to already have a nap. I am also thinking that I don't want to get into any situation already. The common misunderstood friendly encounters for something more.
I say "O.K. but I don't drink". I quickly change the subject and ask when we will set sail. He says maybe around 5 o'clock and drinks around 8-9 o'clock. I leave Christo, smiling and giddy in the pantry and head back to my cabin.
Back in my cabin, I lay on my bed and quickly fall into a deep slumber. I must have kept waking periodically as my dreams began to morph into reality. I couldn't tell if we were moving. My dreams consisted of being aboard a large cargo ferry (imagine that) traveling on the open sea (real original, I know). The big difference was that there were many people on this dream vessel and I was a part of the crew, managing the distribution of food - or something like that. I also had a friend on this boat. We were sailing on the sea, the boat was rocking aggressively, the boat tilted so much the view from the windows was nothing but the gray waters. At first, there was a fear that swept the boat, then a reassuring ease that made this rocking to be normal.
"KNOCK, KNOCK, KNOCK."
I woke suddenly. Someone was at my door. The handle started to to turn and stopped once they realized it was locked. I stood up in delirium, looked out the window trying to place myself. Indeed, we were still docked at the Beloslav port in Bulgaria.
I opened the door. It was Christo. Asking or signally if I was hungry. My eyes were still glued shut. I nodded forgetting that in Bulgarian I was actually saying "no." This has been quite the comical misunderstanding. "Yes/No" we never know.
"Yes, I am hungry." Even though I hadn't even had the chance to think about food yet. I am curious to see what this routine will be and who else is on the boat. Christo points down the corridor to the mess hall. I take a few moments to gather myself, still rubbing my eyes I start down the hall. All I could think was, when are we going to set sail?
I step in the room to see a table full of men, already eating and nearing the end of their meal. It was difficult to make out the faces of the men as the light was pouring from the window just behind them. Next to them, was another table of four set with one single plate. That was for me. I sit down and I know that they are all staring at me. I am the only female on this boat, out of the 7 passengers.
The food is actually good. I've learned that I am easy to please. I don't know if the soup was intended to be a cold soup, but it was quite tasty chilled. Greens with feta and a main dish of rice, french fries, oven fried chicken and an almost ripe tomato.
I kept gazing out the corner of my eye trying to catch a glimpse of my shipmates. I listened and observed them for the rest of my meal. Trying to understand the dynamics. I heard two of them speaking Turkish (also remember seeing a photocopy of a Turkish passport when I "checked" in) and picked up on a few Russian words.
One of the men, the tallest one, left the room momentarily and returned with a bottle of vodka. He offered the men at his table a glass and they all took a drink, except for the Turkish man "Sonra, sağol", stating he would later.
I am the last to finish my meal. There is one other passenger on the boat, who appears to be a traveler. He's sandwiched between the Turkish man and soon to be figured out, the Georgian man. He's tall with blonde hair, probably in his late 50's or early 60's. Once the others leave the room, he joins me at my table. His name is Claus and he is from Germany. He's been on the road cycling, starting in Germany and is headed for Iran.
I am relieved to see there is another passenger on the cargo ferry besides the 5 truckers. He's also a traveler and speaks English. We chat, making small talk. He asks me how my room is. This is when I start to learn that I am getting special treatment.
Everything has been great since I've got on the boat. The crew have been so friendly. I was the first to arrive. After leaving Plamen at the border control, I made my way up the rocky ladder with nothing but rope railings - climbing my way to the boat deck. My big bag strapped on my back, little one balancing the weight on my front, and my food bag over my shoulder. It was tight fit for the rope ladder and there were moments I thought I would fall down that thing... but I made it up!
I was soon ushered to the second passenger deck by Canko and met the Chief Officer. They shuffled for keys and escorted me to one of the cabins near the Chief's office. Room number 2. As they opened the door for me, they said this was the best room. Best for me. I asked if it would be just me in the room and mentioned that I would like my own room if there are enough. They smiled and said, "Don't worry, of course. This is the best room." I thanked them generously and plopped my belongings on the bed by the entrance.
Well, here we are. Here is my new home for one week. And the suite is amazing. I had a big smile on my face, thinking "wow, so much room!"
There are two twin beds, a built in sofa with a table and lounge chair and ottoman near by. My own bathroom, television (which I knew I wouldn't be watching), and amoire and additional storage. It's the most space and privacy I've had in... months!
I settle myself mentally, sitting on the bed, not wanting to unpack anything until we start traveling. I make a tour of the boat, checking out each deck and the different rooms.
The first level is dedicated to the crew. You can tell. There are lockers, bathrooms and many single cabins. I pass the supply rooms and control rooms - even catching glimpse of half- naked women posters mounted on the wall. I find myself the crew's dining room, still smelling of smoke - with oil and vinegar bottles left on the tables, chairs bolted to the floor and another half-naked woman on the calendar hanging on the wall just next to the television.
I come back to my cabin and notice a "welcome" mat has been put in front of my door. Later, Canko comes with a case of water for me. He then directs me to follow him, where I get my sheets, toilet paper and a bar of soap that says "welcome". So far, I have all my supplies and I seem to be set! Later in my room, I hear another "knock, knock, knock". I open to Canko standing there, handing me a Milka chocolate bar in what seems like secret. I smile and take it graciously and he runs off down the hall.
TO BE CONTINUED...
Walking up to the ship to board, feeling SO small
No looking back
This Bulgarian man "checked" me in, if you can call it that. He loved marine life. He asked me about San Francisco and told me that he really wanted to see sharks! They don't have sharks in the Black Sea. He was really curious about if people really got attacked by sharks in California. In his mind, California meant surfing which meant shark attacks.
Empty ship. Nothing but a few containers and a load of military tanks being shipped to Ukraine (all underneath). I learned that the U.S. supplies most all of Ukraine and Georgia with military equipment. Also, technically, no passengers are supposed to be on board when military equipment is being shipped... but who cares about the rules anyways?
My suite. Which was by far, the nicest room! I felt so lucky to have my own space.
And my own bathroom :) luxurious
David Hasselhoff - what a babe. I meandered through the crew's level. This was the only image appropriate to share :)
First meal